Thursday, September 8, 2011

pill-popping and other coping mechanisms, Pt. 1


It's Friday afternoon in Phnom Penh. I'm sitting at Cafe Living Room, housed in a colonial -era building, trying to work out a few things about the research findings, trying to write. The page in front of me -it's minimized right now because I'm using my blog as a distraction, using "urgent" Skype work messages as a break - only has a few words on it. Oh. my. gosh. I'm sipping on a honey latte. It is delicious.

This morning, I went to yoga. It's rare that I have enough motivation to do any form of intentional exercise. Even the act of dressing for the exercise tires me. There was , however, a summer in Portland when I was obsessed with Bikram yoga (26 postures in a 105 degree room), and, for three months, I managed to do yoga three times a week. The idea at first sounded less appealing: me, sweating profusely, in a stuffy hot room with many other people who are also sweating profusely. Images of stepping in, even slipping on, a stranger's pool of sweat plagued my mind. Nonetheless, I was soon addicted. I felt so good that summer. A stranger even commented on how my skin glowed? Really? Was it the increased circulation? In sum, it was the best shape I've been in my recent adult life.

I tried yoga once in Phnom Penh, on the rooftop of Nataraj, with a small fan blowing and an orange sun setting in the background. I think. I do remember it was really warm, almost Bikram-warm. Through no fault of the instructor, I lost interest. It was also $9/session, and maybe I am cheap, but I shy away from paying Western prices in Cambodia.

Only recently have I seriously considered how I take care of myself. Fine. It's the shady NGO crackdown. It's the stress at work. But also I am getting older and I realize I need to put as much intention into taking care of myself as I do about other things, such as travel and dress-daydreaming.

The yoga this morning was done at the Flicks, which is a community movie house in Phnom Penh. They hold a morning session a few times a week, for $5/session. My muscles hurt. TheyAustralian instructor helped me do a headstand (i.e., he held my feet up for 3 seconds). It was good - I'll go again.

Another thing I've done to take care of myself is to take vitamins. In many ways, I eat healthier in Phnom Penh - I eat less processed food, I bake, roast, sautee much more, I almost exclusively buy fresh ingredients. And yet, I don't have access to all the foods I love eating. (No weekly sushi trips with Mami to nosh on seared salmon.) Cheryl's post on skin supplements piqued my interest, and, voilĂ , iherb.com shipped those babies to Cambodia, on the cheap. As opposed to my firm job in Portland, I am in the field more these days, interviewing and meeting with households affected by the ADB Railway Rehabilitation Project. I don't mind more freckles, but my hair is parched, my skin so-so.

Oh, and the random picture: ice cream on a hot day in Almaty, Kazakhstan, a brief stop while on a stroll through the city with Ethan. These days, I don't skimp on small treats.

Radio Australia re NGO Crackdown. Or, How Work Continues to Distract Me.

Australia asked to defend Cambodian NGOs

Presenter:Joanna McCarthy
Speakers: Lee Rhiannon, Australian Greens Party Senator

Listen to the broadcast here

The Australian Greens want the Foreign Minister Kevin Rudd to publicly defend the rights of Cambodian Non-Government Organisations facing a crackdown by Phnom Penh.

The Cambodian government warned NGOs after they wrote to the Australian government's aid agency, Ausaid, about the impact of a railway project on local families being resettled.

The resettlement is being managed by Cambodia but Australia has contributed about $US20 million towards the $140 million refurbishment project.

The letter advised Ausaid and its aid partner, the Asian Development Bank, that two children had drowned fetching water at a relocation site due to a lack of proper facilities.

The Greens say these NGOs have been pivotal in highlighting other problems with the resettlement program, including claims of intimidation and forced removal of families.

The warning comes as Phnom Penh tries to pass a new law regulating NGOs, which observers fear is an attempt to silence those critical of the government.

In a written statement, a spokesperson for Ausaid says it closely monitors conditions at resettlement sites and is in frequent contact with the ADB, the Cambodian government and NGOs regarding conditions and the measures needed to improve them.

It adds that the Australian government has repeatedly made it clear to the Cambodian government that it expects it to honour its agreement to protect the rights of those being resettled.

Sunday, September 4, 2011

Naked Tomato Sauce


It seems all I can think about these days, apart from the shady crackdown on my NGO and writing the research report, is food. Maybe I'm seeking comfort in small pleasures.

This weekend, I was very sick with tummy issues. That's quite common in these parts, and my Khmer colleagues will note, quite frequently with the shaking of their heads and a slight chuckle, that barang (foreigner) stomachs are weak.

It is generally true. There was a period this summer when my office stocked Anna the Swedish-Russian lawyer, 1 American law student, and 1 Canadian law student. It was as if the three did rotations getting sick from food and/or the environment. I don't mean to make light of the issue, but it is just a reality of life here. Strangely, I have never come across so many issues when eating street food in Thailand or in Vietnam. Nor did I encounter any issues eating in Kazakhstan or China this last month.

Poor Ethan had to deal with me. He made me toast, and we watched an old Woody Allen film, as I recouped. When you're feeling like crap and stressed out to bits, a hug from someone who cares, and a reminder of how beautiful and incredible you are work wonders. Nevermind that I don't actually believe it in moments like that.

I'm feeling better today. I'm going to make this for lunch. Simple tomato sauce via Smitten Kitchen. I like the idea of a pared down tomato sauce and the claim that it requires no cheese was enough to bait me. I used the same ingredients in the iteration I made last week -- actually this recipe uses less ingredients! The process is, however, slightly different. I wonder if it will make a difference.

Friday, September 2, 2011

Lephet Thoke - Burmese Tea Leaf Salad

via flickr

Two nights ago, I had dinner with two incredible women at the Burmese restaurant in Phnom Penh, Irrawaddi. Both women work in human rights law in the region and have been in Cambodia for years longer than me. We spent the evening catching up and generally laughing. I am astounded by their ability to balance their life and to remain seemingly healthy and happy. How do people stop the work from sticking?

But this post isn't about the tolls of work in this country. It's about the tea leaf salad. No lettuce - just red chili peppers, roasted peanuts, lime, cilantro, fermented tea leaves, tomato, and garlic. It doesn't sound like it, but it is good.

Obsessed

via Digoyo

Maybe it's just my lingering fascination with those Mociun + Krantz necklaces, but these ceramic necklaces from Digoyo are on my mind tonight.

Also, these shoes by Beatrice Valenzuela . . .

via Jeana

Joint Statement on Cambodian NGO Law


NGOs advised by the Ministry to ‘readjust’ their work

Date Issue 2011-08-19

Nature of violation Veiled threat made against two NGOs by the Foreign Affairs Ministry - Phnom Penh

Rights involved
- Right to freedom of expression, Article 41 of the Constitution of Cambodia and Article 19 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights.

-Right to freedom of association, Article 42 of the Constitution of Cambodia and Article 20 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and Article 22 of the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights

Brief Description
The Foreign Affairs Ministry met with two non-governmental groups yesterday, Thursday 18 August 2011, and accused them of inciting families to oppose the rehabilitation of the Cambodian rail system, ordering the NGOs to “readjust” their work.

More at Cambodian Center for Human Rights

Also, on Human Rights Watch: a joint statement from NGOs

Also, yesterday, day 1 of writing the research report, was an epic failure.

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