Anchors Adrift

Love, in its many forms

2012-02-16T19:20:00.000-08:00

We didn't celebrate Valentine's Day the way I thought we would. Earlier in the day, Ethan's colleague, and our friend, G, was injured in a motorbike accident. At one point, we thought her clavicle may have been broken. It was only a fracture (thank goodness!), but she was quite bruised. We spent the evening with her at the hospital and then at her home.

I sat in the hospital room and later in her Khmer home, surrounded by her friends, as she recounted the events of the day, which involved a couple of Khmer motorbike riders harassing her as she rode along. I sat watching and listening as we all made arrangements - who would stay with her this day, who would cook for her on this day or that day, who would spend time with her. (She lives alone.) I was struck by how love comes in many forms, this time, in the shuffling in and out of friends through cold hospital rooms and concrete Khmer houses at a time of need.

Like many others, I sometimes think this holiday is for suckers. Intellectually, I want to say this, but the truth is: I've come around. Ethan and I exchanged small gifts. Our dinner plans were foiled, but he cooked me a small meal before we left for G's house bearing pastries and other goodies. I bought him a small box of chocolates from Chocolate by the Shop, my favorite chocolatier in Phnom Penh.

I feel very lucky.

Weekend favorites

2012-02-12T21:08:00.000-08:00

There are two sights in the city that always make me smile. One of those sights is the Royal Palace at dusk: all the streams of color set against the gold, birds perched high above, the quiet river at your side. (I'll write about the other sight another day.)

What is it about a simple breakfast, including coffee from my french press, on a Saturday or Sunday morning that makes the day seem so yours for the taking?

Afternoon tea! This time inside the brightly-lit Conservatory of Raffles Hotel Le Royal. I chose a black toffee tea.

The ritual of shopping for produce at Natural Garden, after an afternoon of reading and coffee-sipping at a cafe, is the perfect way to face a new week.

Top 5 Regrets of the Dying

2012-02-12T15:53:00.000-08:00

A palliative nurse, who has counseled the dying in their last days, recorded some of their regrets. Top five below. Full article here.

1. I wish I'd had the courage to live a life true to myself, not the life others expected of me.

2. I wish I hadn't worked so hard.

3. I wish I'd had the courage to express my feelings.

4. I wish I had stayed in touch with my friends.

5. I wish that I had let myself be happier.

My mom works in the medical field and every now and then, she'd come home and tell me the story of her young 30-something patient who just keeled over the next day: an untimely accident, a stroke, a heart attack. It's always in those moments that I feel the impermanence of life.

It is Monday morning, not even 7 o'clock yet. Technically, the report launches in Australia today. It's a mixed bag, this launch, this publication. I feel almost like there's a giant hole where the research, frustration, writing, editing once was. I'm looking forward to my next big project, though I presume it will not be in Cambodia. Also, there's some fear and apprehension of what the reaction will be. I only need to remember last summer's headache. And then, on top of that, I fear for some of the stories we highlighted, some of the faces who agreed to be named, photographed, and quoted in the publication. Some had already been threatened. One had to flee and leave his family for a few months in order to seek safety.

Looking back at Burma

2012-02-10T00:20:00.000-08:00

I'm rummaging through pictures from Myanmar/Burma. Last week, I saw a friend, who was returning to the US. She had journeyed through the country a few weeks ago, a short 10-days sprint and from her accounts, it seems that change is afoot in some parts.

It feels so long ago that I traveled in that country. I remember the constant power outages that left you in the oppressive heat and darkness in the late hours of the night, the sound of the generator amping up, the fan blowing again, lulling you to sleep - random memories housed in the cramped, very simple guestrooms in which I sought temporary shelter.

I became very sick on my last day in Mandalay, so sick I missed my bus back to Yangon, where I had a connecting flight to Bangkok. Traveling alone, I really did rely on the kindness of strangers. And that was present in abundance, in many corners of that country.

Looking ahead, the next 6 months will bring a heady dose of self-selected and self-inflicted uprooting and uncertainty. Did I mention I stress out a lot over change? But these pictures remind me that I've never regretted the chances I've taken in life. I've grown richer from these experiences. Ethan and I often joke over dinner what past-life stories we would tell our children.

Still, all this moving business makes me a little nervous. Just a tad.

Mid-week thoughts

2012-02-07T22:24:00.000-08:00

via Retronaut

When living in Portland, I once tried to walk my cat on a leash. I was in the process of doing so, when two ladies walked by and struck up a conversation with me. "I never knew you could walk a cat," one mused. "Sure, you can," I said," it just takes a little practice." Immediately after saying that, I looked up to find that my fat orange tabby had lodged himself in the tree next to me, his nails dug deep into a branch. It took all my might to pull him down.

Seeing this picture made me chuckle.

It's Wednesday here, and I am taking tomorrow off. I'm going to meet a friend for lunch, visit Ethan's classroom in the afternoon, and not entertain a single thought about work until Friday morning.

The minimalist

2012-02-06T00:00:00.000-08:00

via Of a Kind

I live, and am in love, with a minimalist. Once, he stared around our flat, littered with clothes from my then-only-two suitcases of US-Cambodia imports, and declared, "You have a lot of stuff." Little did he know, at that time, that he was co-habitating with a woman who, on top of those two suitcases of dresses, belts, and shoes, had approximately 15+ boxes of beloved dresses, belts, and shoes in Los Angeles, and another 9+ boxes of dresses, belts, shoes and books in my best friend's basement in Portland.

After our visit home this Christmas holiday, he now knows.

Still, I feel a slight tinge of hesitation when I think of purchasing something new. I'm well aware that a move is in the near horizon, and accumulating now will surely increase the likelihood of cursing when I pack and relocate. My reluctance these days to treat myself to beautiful things is (thankfully!) countered by the fact that my minimalist is also a staunch proponent of buying quality-made, non-throw-away goods from artisans, a choice, he accepts, comes with higher prices - investments, if you will.

So onto my next aesthetic distraction: this Clare Vivier clutch, made in vintage floral leather, by a Los Angeles-based artisan. It reminds me of a 3.1 Lim dress I left Stateside.

A Khmer Wedding

2012-02-05T18:46:00.000-08:00

What a week it has been! A friend's departure, another friend's wedding, and yet another friend's return. And in between the various gatherings and celebrations scattered throughout the week to punctuate these events, there was the publication mess, one which left me at the printers, poring over words, until 11PM on Friday evening and then most of my Saturday morning. I spent Sunday recovering.

But let's talk about weddings, because a dear colleague was wedded mid-week. What to say about these events? These events always evaporate in an overload of color, taffetta, ruffles, gilded eyes and lips and alcohol. For this wedding, the bride had 11 (yes) dress changes, each ensemble more ornate than the other. (Foreigners should note that your Khmer counterparts will always out-dress you for these events.) Oh, there is always Khmer dancing in a circle, around a pole.

This colleague, a young, ambitious woman who dares to dream of higher education and a thriving career as a researcher, was wedded to a classmate, who showed up at her door to ask her parents for her hand in marriage. After a dowry and other details were negotiated, her parents agreed. That was that, and she was informed. Until that day, she had no idea that the young man even fancied her.

Lately, I've been thinking about the concept and assumptions related to Western marriage. My grandma Elpidia was party to an arranged marriage, to a man many years her senior who she had never met before. Perhaps love wasn't there to begin with, but I will tell you that when she lost my grandpa Felipe, after decades of marriage, rearing three children and shuttling between two continents, she was so broken at the loss of her life companion. It broke my heart to see her that way.

Rants, Reward

2012-01-30T21:50:00.000-08:00

via Jumelle

I've been working my butt off during the past year on advocacy, field research and a publication on the Project. The report will launch in Melbourne, Australia in a few weeks. Yet, even as co-author and lead researcher, I will not be in attendance. It seems unfair, and I've found myself frustrated with the process on several occasions. Ethan tries to keep me positive by reminding me that a conference at a certain human rights center will be focused solely on the work, that this work could actually impact Project-affected people both in this Project and other related projects. Yes, yes, all very rad, but I am a salty curmudgeon. I suppose all the workings of the world aren't just. That is one of many lessons I've learned through my experience in Cambodia.

Rant aside, I deserve a treat. I'm thinking this pair of No. 6 clogs will suffice. Question is, are they too similar to the previously posted Rachel Comey wedges? (See last post.)

My weekend

2012-01-28T22:51:00.000-08:00

I am trying to stay present, but my mind invariably moves back either to memories or forward to plans ahead. Oh, plans ahead - both a well of excitement and possibilities and worrisome uncertainty.

This weekend: wine and cheese tasting followed by movie night on a terrace, where I fought off persistent mosquitoes; introducing the Western concept of a "bridal lunch" to girlfriends, one of whom will be wedded this week; a trip to the recently renovated Central Market (love the architecture of that building); dinner with my uncle, a temporary transplant to Phnom Penh; phone calls to my grandmother Elpidia and my mum; dancing in the apartment with Ethan; and today, a lazy, warm Sunday afternoon spent at Java Cafe.

Life is good.

Comfort food.

2012-01-24T23:02:00.000-08:00

Lunch: A simple rice bowl and okonomiyaki, a Japanese savory pancake, at Spring Vale, a small Japanese eatery near Toul Tumpong Market (Russian Market). Because of our work schedules, Ethan and I hardly ever meet for lunch. It's such a treat when we do - an hour or two to break the pace of work.

Una

2012-01-24T18:25:00.000-08:00

via Erin Considine (Una)

I spent one afternoon in Portland catching up with Becki at Crema. It was so wonderful to learn how life has evolved in the past year and a half.

Burnside/NE28th was just as I remembered - Crema, the small plant shop across the street, the sleepy vintage stores nearby, they all felt unchanged. Only, as I was telling Becki that afternoon, I was disconcerted because in that environment, I felt very different, older, more worn. Could a year and a half being away really do that to you?

After coffee, we walked over to Una. I had all the intention to buy a Mociun & Krantz necklace. They were 20 percent off! I had been drooling over them from Cambodia for x months! But somehow, I was not blown away by them at all. Instead, what made me swoon was an Erin Considine piece (left picture, above). I didn't pull the trigger that day. Sticker shock must have also accompanied me on the voyage across the International Date Line.

Back in Cambodia, I'm still thinking about that necklace. Good jewelry, particularly out here, is so hard to find. And I've never been one to go without such luxuries.

What I Ate, Pt. 2

2012-01-21T17:35:00.000-08:00

Or, rather, what I drank. Stumptown Coffee in Portland, Oregon.

2012

2012-01-19T17:41:00.000-08:00

Disjointed images of life, above. I'm slowly trying to get back into the swing of things. It's proving more difficult with this trip. Yesterday, at the grocery store, I ran into a colleague who heads up a division of the UN. We lamented about how, with each trip out of Cambodia, it becomes harder to adjust to life here.

At any rate, there are many things I can look forward to this year: My sisters and Ryan are visiting me in May. In early July and August, Ethan and I are visiting Indonesia and then India. Sometime after that, there will be a move, which will be an entirely different beast. Also, the report is near publication -so very, very close, but it is driving me insane a little. (And, how will the Government respond??)

What I Ate, Pt. 1

2012-01-17T00:40:00.000-08:00

Stumptown Coffee Roasters, Portland

I'm back in Phnom Penh, still jetlagged and spinning from nearly four weeks of time with my family and friends - and Ethan's family, too. Last night, menacing thunderstorms kept me up in the wee hours of the morning and my thoughts raced immediately to my time back home. Admittedly, I cannot really pin down "home": I was born and raised for several years abroad; I grew up in Los Angeles and my family is there; I lived in the gem that is Portland for 6 years; I now reside in Phnom Penh, Cambodia; and Ethan and I are contemplating our next move. I have never considered myself a "nomad," as I really like to plant myself somewhere for an extended period of time, but gazing at the previous sentence makes me pause.

At any rate, my thoughts centered on the idea of "home" and "community." Having spent some time reconnecting with friends on this trip, I am reminded of the calibre of my friends. They are an incredible bunch of people.

And then, my mind wandered to gatherings with these people, often against the setting of food and consumption. On this trip, I followed friends and family around to their favorite restaurants. Here are a few favorites:

La Moscata Bakery (Los Angeles, California): I've never actually stepped foot in this bakery. I only know that my dad, a retired City of Los Angeles worker, frequented this bakery for what he claims are some of the best tamales in town. Apparently, it's a City workers' haunt. The morning I left for Denver, Colorado, I awoke to find several dozen tamales n our family kitchen. My parents made the 6:00AM morning drive to stand in line at this Los Angeles bakery. They wanted to send Ethan and his family a few vegetarian and sweet tamales.

Snooze, an A.M. Eatery (Fort Collins, Colorado): I ordered the eggs benedict, topped with tomato ragu, kale, white beans, squash and cream cheese hollandaise. I, however, also sampled the buttermilk pancakes topped with pumpkin cream, candied pumpkin seeds and chili-infused syrup and the red velvet pancakes with the espresso-infused maple syrup.

Del INTI (Portland, Oregon): I really, really enjoy a non-fusion, simple lomo saltado, the kind you find at hole-in-the-wall Peruvian eateries, tucked away in bland stripmalls in Southern California. This restaurant was certainly not in a stripmall and the food was a little fusion, but it was one of the best Peruvian meals I've had in Portland.

Tabernash Tavern (Tabernash, Colorado): This is a small restaurant in the mountains of Colorado, near Winter Park. All I remember is that the buffalo stroganoff was yum.

Portland!

2012-01-08T02:23:00.000-08:00

Eating, drinking, and catching up with amazing friends in PDX. This little city glitters.

Before I go ...

2011-12-30T23:07:00.000-08:00

Just a reminder that I am still cleaning out my closet. It's a pity, really, that so much stuff has been left in boxes for 20+ months.

Listings updated here and here.

Fraser, Colorado

2011-12-30T17:40:00.000-08:00

via sjb4 (flickr)

I hate packing, but pack I must.

Early tomorrow morning, I fly to Denver, Colorado, where I will meet Ethan. I think we're going to meander a bit for the afternoon and visit what he claims is a used bookshop that rivals Powell's Books of Portland (yeah right) before descending up to Fraser, Colorado.

It will be a quiet first week of 2012. We'll be staying with his family at their mountain house. This picture, taken near Fraser, seems so otherworldly.

Happy New Year! What a year 2011 has been.

Daydreaming

2011-12-30T01:10:00.000-08:00

All pictures stolen from a friend

I'm sure my friends and colleagues laugh at my strange, inexplicable fondness of Mongolia. It's good, then, that, having traveled there separately, Ethan shares the same sentiments as me. We have a running joke about living in Ulaanbaatar for a year. He would teach; I would research. If we crave more, we could dip into Beijing via a 36 hour train ride, or in the opposite direction on the train, go to Olkhon Island in Russia, also the stuff of dreams. It's unlikely for a host of reasons, but mainly because after Cambodia, I need more creature comforts--not less.

These pictures were taken by a friend during my first few days in the country. That place really was magic. And years later, its expansive landscapes and misty mornings still haunt me.

Sea Salt Coffee

2011-12-29T23:57:00.000-08:00

via NPR

It's amazing how much food I consume on these trips home. Considering the food choices and various ethnic enclaves scattered throughout the greater Los Angeles area, I should not have expected anything less. With friends and family in the past week and a half, I've had "the best Mexican food" in San Gabriel Valley, Santa Ana, and Redondo Beach. I've had steaming bowls of ramen in West Covina and been stuffed with tamales from East Los Angeles and Cuban food from Long Beach. I've sampled Indian in Pasadena, though Little India near Cerritos would have been my choice. I've hopped about Korean and Taiwanese eateries in Arcadia and Rowland Heights.

For non-Los Angelenos, those city names mean nothing. But in those ventures, there is often a considerable amount of driving and freeway traversing - all in the name of good food. That variety is one of the things I love about Los Angeles. It never disappoints.

Tonight, Joseph and Jenny took me to Jazz Cat Cafe, a hotpot place in Rowland Heights, and then to 85C Bakery for sea salt coffee. The coffee was tasty.

Oh, and another thing I am no longer accustomed : long lines for restaurants.

Lingering on Mondulikiri

2011-12-28T10:47:00.000-08:00

I know this post should be about the Christmas holiday and how great it was - it really was a good holiday, one of the best I've had in years and a perfect way to punctuate what has been an incredible, if not stressful and intense, year.

But this morning, I'm not thinking of Christmas dinner, nor of the refrigerator full of tamales, carne asada, ham, brussel sprouts with bacon, mocha cake, red velvet cake, cheesecake, som tam (Thai papaya salad), sticky rice, or lumpia (egg rolls) left over from that night.

My mind is going back to the week I spent in Mondulikiri province before I flew back home, to the really strange day I was holed up in Bananas, a shack-cum-restaurant situated near the trickling river, where I ate homemade bread and Dutch meatballs served up by a German expat who had called the place home for several years. All day, I wrote frantically, well aware that I had to fly home in less than 48 hours. It was cold. I had a scarf and fleece jacket one (unheard of in Cambodia), and when the wind blew, the shack shook and shook. As you looked up, the holes in the roof were visible, light streaming in. Around me, a hungry bulldog begged for food, while I had to move my coffee cup, to and fro, away from the two grey and white kittens jumping into my lap, onto the desk.

I thought of this because the past week has been a break from work and revisions and clarifications. But I'm now back, working remotely. The paper launches in Australia in February, or so I've been told. It is crunch time, they say.

When I think of Cambodia, of colleagues and friends there, of my work and then compare those images to my few days spent home, to the few hours in crowded malls and in busy streets lined with more modernity, affluence, and mobility than I've seen in the last 12 months, the whole Cambodia experience seems so distant and surreal.

This is absolutely cliche, but I just don't think I'll ever be the same.

Home

2011-12-21T22:55:00.000-08:00

via Totokaleo

It feels good to be home, even though today at Sephora with my mom, I was absolutely overwhelmed by the crowds of people and the abundance of shiny things. I must have walked down those streets in Old Town Pasadena so many times as I grew up in the area . . . Nonetheless, I cannot complain: good Indian food, a hot cup of chai masala, and a chat with my mom are always welcome.

While I am here, I'll be doing some closet cleaning in the next few weeks. Take a look here and here.

10 hours in Seoul

2011-12-18T22:35:00.000-08:00

via flickr (The Perfect Cup)

It was -9 degrees Celsius in Seoul today, quite a difference from warm Phnom Penh. Last year, I had the same layover and left the airport. I remember feeling overwhelmed by everything I saw: the modernity, the apparently higher disposable incomes of the middle class, the shops, shops, shops, the cold.

This year, perhaps because I've already visited, perhaps because as I promised to myself earlier in the year, I managed to travel outside of Cambodia when the opportunity was there - for whatever reason - I was not as overwhelmed, and I welcomed eating and shopping in downtown Seoul in the same way I will welcome my experiences in neighborhoods in Los Angeles and Portland.

But something is new and disconcerting: On the tuk-tuk ride to the airport last night, I realized something in me has shifted since my last trip to the US. I cannot put my finger on it yet. I don't even know if it's good or bad. I only know in the same way you can tell when you wake up in the .morning and, straight out of bed, you know something is a little different with your body, something is outside the range of what you've considered normal for most of your days.

Maybe I'll figure it out on this trip?

By the way, I was on the bus back to the airport when news broke of Kim Jong II's death. It was all in Korean, but by the the constant replay of his images, I suspected he had died. What a year it has been for world news! Wow.

I am exhausted. I'm looking forward to in-flight movies, a meal, a glass of wine, and some sleep. When I wake up, I'll be back home.

Christmas!

2011-12-16T16:20:00.000-08:00

via Amazon

I'm back from Mondulikiri via a bumpy 8 hour bus ride. I'm feeling a little ragged right now. I leave for Los Angeles tomorrow evening, but there's so much to do before then.

There's the writing I haven't finished, brunch in a few hours with two lovely ladies, a meeting with the editor, and, oh yeah, gift shopping! The feeling of Christmas, of holidays, has presented itself in an unsteady trickle. One night, Ethan (who does not have the same fond associations with the holiday as I do) and I found ourselves humming and dancing around the flat to cheesy holiday tunes. That was nice. Another day, at Daughters of Cambodia Cafe, the sweet barista brought me a sugar cookie in the shape of a Christmas tree. In general, though, the lights strewn about and the lit-up Christmas trees inside shops feel very artificial and strange to me because, to the vast majority of Khmers, this holiday is clearly a Western import. To me, this holiday has always held strong associations with family time, eating and laughter - and I've made a promise to myself that no matter where I am in the world, I will go home for the holidays.

I'm starting off the day early, with a cup of coffee, sweetened with honey. I'm thinking of getting my sister, Jack, a french press from Russian Market. I do not know how I ever lived without one!

Amusement from Mondulikiri

2011-12-14T08:36:00.000-08:00

via Cup of Jo

NYC's new set of Haiku traffic signs: awesome.

Unrelated: I am in Mondulikiri this week, a far eastern province in Cambodia. Here, the soil is red and the climate is cool. When people speak about this part of the country, one often hears comparisons to the English countryside. Sen Monorom, the main town, has a handful of streets that wind up and down the hills, and a river that cuts through it.

The night sky tonight was amazing, the stars twinkling so brightly, the moon shrouded in clouds.

Note to Self: On Working in Cambodia

2011-12-11T02:29:00.000-08:00

When I first moved to Cambodia, a colleague took me to my first meeting UN meeting on land rights. As I sat around the table, listening to updates on land disputes and forced evictions within the country, I noticed that people laughed at really awful things. "That's what happens when you've been here a while," my colleague whispered to me, after noticing that I sat there, silent, mouth agape. At the time, it weirded me out.

I understand now: People cope, in any way, by any means they can, and sometimes that involves laughing at some of the political and social realities, many of which are ridiculous, disheartening and frustrating to no end. For other expats, it means drinking themselves silly; yet, for others, leaving the city whenever the opportunity arises.

Why do people stay? How do they continue to do this work? These are questions I myself have tried to answer this year, though unsuccessfully. I believe that people who work in this sector in Cambodia burn out quickly - over the course of the year, I have met four lawyers, all of whom have independently warned me about the intensity of land rights/human rights work here, how it can affect you. For each of those lawyers, the answer to continuing their work in Cambodia came in the form of moving out of the country and working regionally on these issues, finding a home base that is safe and comfortable: Geneva, Chiang Mai, Melbourne, Manila. As much as I can surmise, the answer came in establishing distance, drawing boundaries.

Over a year later, I do not have answers. I only know that somehow, at this time in my life, this work clicks with me. As idealistic as it sounds, I feel fortunate to be able to contribute through my profession.

But this year has been so very intense.

To be continued . . .

A growing list

2011-12-11T00:48:00.000-08:00

all images via Of a Kind

I would be lying if I didn't say that I have had a long list of items I want to pick up when I'm Stateside. On that list are random household items, little pleasures that make life in Phnom Penh more comfortable: blue corn tortillas, pine nuts, Mexican spices, maybe some GT 1000s Curried Green Tomato Pickles from cheesemonger-store Foster & Dobbs in Portland (oh my goodness, their Fromage D'Affinois sandwich, with a buttery rind cheese, is delicious).

Also on the list are some Erin Considine, Dream Collective and/or Mociun & Krantz pieces. These may be old news to people in the US, but I have been waiting to see these pieces in person! By the way, the Portland in me digs that Erin Considine uses natural dyes in her work.

This may be my only chance in the next 8-9 months because I will be in Cambodia for most of next year. As I write this, even I cannot believe it, particularly given the shady stuff that I/we had to deal with this year. (Umm, hello Govt crackdown on human rights NGOs!) Earlier this year, I was almost certain that I would not return to Cambodia next year.

Life is so strange.

Portland Jones #1

2011-12-07T19:11:00.000-08:00

via Byrds and Bees

Becki, let's grab cappuccinos at Crema, my favorite light-filled renovated warehouse coffee shop in Portland, and then saunter across the street to Una to look at Mociun & Krantz necklaces!

There's a wave of giddiness that comes and goes, that washes over me when I realize that I will be in Portland very soon. It's been too long since I've seen dear friends, or had a cup of Stumptown coffee (another one we should go to, Becki). There's been so much life that has passed in this year for myself and loved ones, and there were many times when I wished I could share in those moments more intimately with those who live thousands of kilometers and a vast ocean away.

Wedged between me and Portland, however, are several long days and nights of writing, writing, writing and then revising, revising, revising - and technically, a shopping layover in Seoul, some time in Los Angeles, and mountain cabin time in Colorado.

Concentrate.

Wednesday Inspiration

2011-12-06T16:22:00.000-08:00

all images via Beatrice Valenzuela

Shoe-maker Beatrice Valenzuela's blog is full of inspiration. There are snapshots of her colorful meals and accompanying recipes, of her home. All this makes me really miss tortillas. Did you know I haven't had a good tortilla in all my time in Cambodia? It's very easy to take good tortillas for granted, until you end up in Cambodia. My southern California upbringing has spoiled me.

My weekend

2011-12-05T01:03:00.000-08:00

Daughters of Cambodia

2011-11-29T22:24:00.000-08:00

All pictures via Daughters of Cambodia

And just like that, November is gone.

Thanksgiving Thursday flew by without turkeys or cranberry sauce. Although Ethan and I went out to dinner that evening, the day just felt off. Unlike the Christmas holiday, which I never miss, I haven't spent most Thanksgivings in California with my family. There were several years in Portland, when, due to law school, extreme cram sessions and small bank accounts, I could not make it home. Last year, I spent the holiday in Poipet, the lovely Cambodian slum known for drug trafficking, neon-signed casinos lighting up the night sky, and really weird abandoned amusement parks.

Despite the absence of many adult Thanksgivings at home, I missed my family so much this year, and I thought I would give anything to be able to watch ridiculous Law & Order SVU (I am lame) marathons, as my grandma Elipidia cooked.

Such is life abroad, I suppose.

Life these days feels similar to those cram sessions I did in law school and at the firm. One good thing about my recent holing-up is that I've discovered a little gem of a cafe in Phnom Penh, Sugar 'n Spice (run by Daughters of Cambodia), where proceeds go to supporting victims of sex trafficking in Cambodia. The food is delicious and the comfy seats enable me to plop down and write for long stretches. I figured I was spending in the upwards of $15 a day in other Phnom Penh coffee shops. My money can go to a better cause.

Daughters also has a small craft shop and nail salon onsite.

slowing down.

2011-11-21T18:57:00.000-08:00

via Simply Recipes

Tuesday morning. The week is already starting to improve: cooking, wine-drinking, no crazy, push-push-push deadlines looming in the next few days. I made this galette two nights ago, sans a food processor and in my mini electric oven. Yum. Plums aren't easy to come by in Cambodia, and they also aren't cheap. Well worth it, I say. I adapted the recipe, using Cambodian palm sugar (kind of like brown sugar) and limes, from my lime tree, rather than lemon. I prefer a little more substance to my crusts, so I may play around next time with different flours.

Recipe for the crust here. Plum galette recipe here.

ALSO:

via Ermie

How wonderful is Ermie's new collection? I am very tempted by the silk tee in the Talitha print. Jennifer has been just lovely, answering my questions about caring for the silk Ermie pieces - in Cambodia, I do not do dry-cleaning. I've lost many a silk blouse here.

Sunday errands.

2011-11-20T01:08:00.000-08:00

When, as last week, the pace of work is nuts, everything runs off-kilter for me. I don't have time to cook or bake. I don't have time to run my errands. Sleep is irregular. There's no space for myself.

The upcoming week may be a repeat, but I spent the Sunday baking granola, laughing with Ethan, and slowly putting small things in order. Some thoughts today:

1. I am loving this SFS Circle Top, which shipped from Gravel & Gold in San Francisco.
2. I picked up my new glasses. Long overdue. There's this "secret eyeglass shop," as some locals refer to it, near Central Market, where you can pick up old refurbished vintage frames and prescription lenses for $30-$40. The inner Gladys in me is happy.
3. I'm digging the selection of French toiletries at the Thai Huot grocery store. This line of body washes and simple soaps gets me every time.

365 days, weeks #44-46.

2011-11-15T16:14:00.000-08:00

How is it mid-November? Someone please tell me. For the past 3 weeks, the pace of life has been go,go, go. I'm almost at a loss for words, but in my attempt to document, here are a few thoughts today, disjointed just like the images above:

1. It's the early morning of day 3 of a crazy week, filled with: me kicking unethical journalists out of meetings, who I then chided for endangering already threatened community members; me and others just completely frustrated by the lack of progress by key stakeholders, by an apparent absence of due diligence (wish I could say more here, but I cannot); me writing frantically, harkening back to the late nights I often pulled working as a lawyer at a firm, except this time the subject matter is so emotionally taxing, the mechanisms unpredictable, inaccessible.

2. Last week, craving urban space, Ethan and I took a circuitous route through Koh Kong, Cambodia, with its verdant mountains, crossed the border into Thailand, and headed into Bangkok. Again! It was like many of our journeys: one of movement. I've been fortunate to travel as much as I have this year, while working as much as I have - this would not have been possible except for the crazy Cambo holidays that riddle certain parts of the calendar. In Bangkok this time, we observed the flooding preparations (sandbags, new concrete mini-walls in front of shops), and I probably had the best bowl of ramen since my last trip to Japan two years ago. I also scored a pair of yellow Worishofer-esque clog/sandals.

3. I started taking cyclos around the city, when I can find them. They are much slower on movement, but I don't know how these men, usually much older, compete with the ubiquitous motor bike operators. I associate cyclos with Yangon, Burma. One memory I have is of riding around one in the city after sunset, pitch black because of the common black-outs, the high-pitched cyclo bell ringing, cutting through the dark.

4. I really hate farewell parties.

5. I picked up my SFS Circle Top at the post office. It arrived in Cambodia from San Francisco in less than 1 week, although it took the Cambo post system some time to inform me. Score 1 for the US Post. The top is airy, the print is lovely.

6. In one month, I travel home. Wow.

Cambodian Weddings and Granola Making

2011-11-05T18:19:00.000-07:00

It's Sunday morning. Last night, it rained like mad, toppling the small plants on the terrace, including the chili plant that seems to be dying, despite my attempts to water and sun it.

At 6:00a.m. this morning, the sound of music, drums, cymbals even, and amplified talking poured through the windows of my home: a Cambodian wedding. I was just writing to my good friend, Anu, about the phenomenon of Cambodian weddings, which appear to pop up more and more in the days approaching Water Festival, another Cambodian holiday. (Yes, the upcoming week is a short work week.) Is this an auspicious time? It must be because up and down my street, and on the street behind and in front of my home, tents have been erected, and they are filled with people eating and dancing from the wee morning hours until more modest evening hours. These weddings last 3 days.

Am I a horrible person to admit these loud festivities in the early morning hours annoy me? Prevent me from sleeping past 6:30a.m. on what should be lazy weekends? There are no zoning laws in Cambodia, or if there are, they are not enforced, so another result of these pop-up weddings is bottlenecks and bad traffic.

In any case, since I could not sleep, I woke up and made granola. I scored a small electric oven from Dom, my friend who just moved back to Australia, and I've made a batch of very simple granola before. I adapted the following recipe from Lauren Soloff,* of the Granola Project, using local ingredients, like Mondulikiri honey and palm sugar.

The mixture is currently baking in my oven and the house smells like cinnamon.

[Photos and recipe via Chef Speak]

Coconut Sesame Date Granola
Yields approximately 8 cups

Ingredients:
6 cups rolled oats (not quick-cooking or instant)
2 cups sliced or slivered almonds (raw and unsalted)
1 cup dried unsweetened shredded coconut
1 cup roasted sesame seeds
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon, or to taste
Generous dash of sea salt
1/2 to 1 cup agave or maple syrup**
3/4 cup olive oil (or olive oil and canola oil blend)
1 cup deglet dates, pitted and chopped

Instructions:
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, combine oats, nuts and seeds, coconut, cinnamon, and salt.
On the stove in a small pot combine the sweetener and oil and bring to a boil. Immediately remove from heat and add to the oat mixture.
Place on a sheet pan lined with parchment paper and put in oven. Bake for 30 minutes or a little longer, stirring frequently. Be careful the edges do not burn.
Remove pan from oven and add the dates. Cool on a rack. Transfer to a sealed glass container.

* I am green with envy for that heart-shaped Le Creuset.

** I used a mixture of palm sugar and local honey instead. Real, quality maple syrup is hard to find here and expensive.

[Post-edit: In my electric oven at least, it is easier to burn the edges, so I'll turn down the baking temperature next time.]

Eating my way through Chengdu

2011-10-31T02:25:00.000-07:00

After the entrancing post-Soviet kitsch of Almaty, Kazakhstan and the crumbling walls of the Old Muslim Quarter in Kashgar, China, we headed west. In fact, we had a ticket booked to fly out of Chengdu, China in late August. We, however, underestimated the distance (over 4,300km from Kashgar) and overestimated the availability of transport in the region (limited). Once we left Xinjiang province, all movement west was accompanied with increasingly more crowds and tourists - and ultimately sold out train tickets.

Travel west was piecemeal, a series of transfers and glimpses of desert towns strung along a circuit in the Northern Taklamakan Desert. Since the China train system does not have centralized booking, we had to wait until we arrived in the city to buy tickets from that city onto to the next destination. Okay... We would arrive in a city in the early morning and head straight to the ticket counter, hoping that transport to the next destination was available within a day or so. If we were lucky, we'd get tickets for later that evening, drop our bags at the luggage deposit, and set out to explore the small towns for the day, eating our way through local treats.

The most difficult day we had was in Lanzhou. We had arrived via a 36-hour (or something equally taxing) hard seat train trip from Dunhuang, I think. Upon arrival, we realized that the train to Chengdu was sold out for weeks! Worse yet, there are no direct buses from Lanzhou to Chengdu. Weird.

Further compounding my annoyance, access to any pertinent internet information was limited because all the information about bus travel (or lack thereof) from Lanzhou was on Blogger-supported sites, which are blocked in China. We were left with two options: (1) Take the tenuous route through Sichuan province, through small Tibetan towns with haphazard bus schedules; or (2) take a train to Xian, which is further west still, and hope that connections via bus or train could be made there. And, we were running out of time.

We opted for Xian, and yes there was a bus connection there!

Long story short: We eventually made it to Chengdu and had a few days to spare. We settled at Sim's Guesthouse, a cozy little gem of a place, and explored the city, lamenting the end of our trip. It was a wonderful few days of Chongqing hot-potting, dumpling eating, and Tibetan sweet yak milk drinking.

Packing for Kep

2011-10-27T22:21:00.000-07:00

Yes, it's another holiday in Cambodia. For the King's birthday, Ethan and I are off to Kep, a coastal town about 3-4 hours from Phnom Penh, for some lazy days and seaside adventures. As much as I love travel, I really hate packing. I hesitate for ages and it's rare that I'm not up late or awake early before a flight, frantically throwing things into my luggage and cursing my procrastination.

I'm trying to remedy that right now. But, as you can see, I'm not quite done. I've limited myself to one striped thing so far - also very uncharacteristic of me.

Tonight, I have a farewell party and a birthday party to attend. I dislike goodbyes in general, but this one is to a dear friend and colleague, who has helped me keep my sanity at work for the past year. He leaves for Australia and then NYC! I'm sad.

Happy weekend, everyone.

Camera Repair and Cats.

2011-10-27T01:45:00.000-07:00

I took my camera, which is really old and functions on double A batteries, to a repair shop in Phnom Penh. The camera repairman took one look, shook his head, and told me there is nothing wrong with it. I insisted there was indeed something wrong - it dies after, like, 10 shots; the images are blurry; there's an unreasonable delay in the shutter speed- all new ailments. He placed new batteries in the camera, and we came to a compromise: I have to snap a bunch of pictures until the camera "dies" again. Then, I can run back to the shop and have it repaired.

Okay.

Here are shots from my day, mostly from lunch. (The last shot is of a vintage dress that is currently undergoing alterations at Russian Market.) I frequent Soran, a small Japanese restaurant next to Boeung Keng Kang Market, at least once a week for their $4 USD lunch specials, which includes an entree (today: curry and rice), miso soup, a small dish (usually something pickled), tea, and iced coffee. It's simple food, but it's good food. More importantly, however, the owner loves cats. She has three of the fattest cats I've seen in Cambodia, and she even has a few interesting kitty photos hanging in the bathroom. Some friends think it's a little bizarre, but the crazy cat lady in me gets it.

Right Now.

2011-10-26T01:59:00.000-07:00

via lovely blog Sunday Photo

I am aching for autumn.

I am also cooking up my second batch of ratatouille! The kitchen smells wonderful.

Pursat Railway Communities

2011-10-25T17:17:00.000-07:00

I meant to post pictures from this trip a few weeks ago, but never got the chance because I was off to Thailand and elsewhere immediately thereafter. This community lives in and around a small station about 30km south of Pursat station, on the Northern Line - the line that is intended to connect Cambodia with Thailand. I don't know what is going to happen to these people. The Project-sponsored resettlement site is chock-full, and eventually these people, who have built tailor shops and makeshift grocery stores on the station grounds, will have to move. Where will they go? After speaking to them a bit, we realized they have no clue - no clue about whether they will be forced to move, no clue about this project that will inevitably displace them.

And, as in other land sector cases, these people will probably be given minimal (I'm talking like a month) notice of being relocated, as they are told to thumbprint (people don't typically use signatures here; they thumbprint documents) some contract or statement that they won't quite understand, before finally being required to move. Many settled in the area after the fall of the Khmer Rouge in 1979.

There's an early Tuesday morning rant.

By the way, aren't those old sewing machines rad? They're everywhere here.

On the topic of sunscreen

2011-10-24T21:30:00.000-07:00

via yesstyle

I'm going to start by saying that I am an Asian American woman. I have olive skin and a sprinkling of freckles across my cheeks and nose that has plagued me since I was a child. If I spend too much time under the sun, I sunburn. I do not like whitening products. Moreso, I absolutely hate the pressure in Asia and elsewhere to beautify by whitening my skin and bleaching my freckles.

Even in Cambodia, where presumably there's less disposable income to throw at whitening products, the pressure to whiten remains in full force. On my trip to Thailand two weeks ago, I received several requests from colleagues, who wanted this or that version of whitening lotion. It was hilarious actually, if not a little sad.

I've explain to my colleagues that their tanned skin is beautiful - hell, even the rage in the United States. I've also urged them to take care of their skin by wearing sunscreen, everyday. But the notion of wearing sun protection, sans whitening, has not caught on.

Until recently, I've stayed away from sunscreens in Asia, most of which are whitening. I brought two bottles of my trusted Jan Marini Antioxidant Daily Face Protectant SPF30 with me from back home. Though it worked wonders for me in United States climate, it began to feel greasy in this tropical climate. Since I spent a considerable amount of my time this year in the field, I also needed more sun protection.

Reluctantly, I made the jump to Japanese-brand Kanebo IC Impress Brightening Sun Protectant, with its whopping SPF50. I was hesitant because of the "brightening" tag, but I was assured that it is not a whitener. The texture, light and milky, was also ideal. Nearly five months into daily usage, I can report that my freckles have not faded (yay), and I have non-sunburnt, quite hydrated skin.

Perhaps I should look at other Asian market products after all. To be continued ...

The Cause of Progress

2011-10-23T19:56:00.000-07:00

The Cause of Progress Film Trailer from Little Ease Films on Vimeo.

About a year ago, I traveled to Siem Reap to monitor the trials at Chi Kreng community, which placed me on a "human rights bus" with a few folks, including an Irish filmmaker and an activist monk. The filmmaker was making a documentary about forced evictions in Cambodia. At the time, he had been living in Cambodia for a year, following these stories. When I think about that trip now, I remember, more than anything else, feeling elated, emotionally-reactive, alive.

On Saturday, more than a year later, I saw a trailer for the film. It showed at Meta House, amidst a lively crowd of Boeung Kak Lake residents, mothers and children - all of whom peered at the screen for shots of their daily lives.

After the film, Gayla and Ethan both turned to me and asked me how I continued to work in this field. Even though Ethan lives in Phnom Penh and has heard so much about these communities from my constant rants, the images really struck him.

I've been seeing these images for over a year and a half now. Out of necessity, I've grown accustomed to them, perhaps even numb. But something on Saturday evening, something about seeing it from another person's eyes, jerked at me and brought back the waves of overwhelming feelings that gripped me during my first months in Cambodia.

In any case, The Cause of Progress tells the stories of three Cambodians caught up in forced evictions and development in Cambodia. This is just a glimpse. I believe the final cut will be very powerful.

Casa

2011-10-22T18:22:00.000-07:00

via Making Chicken Salad

Shoemaker Beatrice Valenzuela's home in Echo Park. Love the colors and textures - they remind of the textures and colors that dotted my childhood. More pictures here.

Ratatouille

2011-10-19T13:58:00.000-07:00

via Popcorn Plays

Natasha's ratatouille recipe really hit the spot. Despite my hunger pains, I let the veggies simmer and stew for two hours, as she recommended. And, something at the hour-and-a-half mark just turned the whole diced mess into magic. Admittedly, I didn't have pepper or parsley, nor a bay leaf at hand, and so I was a little worried. I used basil instead and a few bits of rosemary and then cheated by throwing in a tiny, tiny dash of balsamic. I topped a bowl-full off with freshly torn pieces of basil, before savoring it with a crunchy baguette. This is a definite re-do for me.

mociun.

2011-10-19T01:46:00.000-07:00

This is a rather late response to news that Mociun is closing shop. Mociun has been one of my favorite artisans, with her beautiful textiles and easy shapes. I brought only one of her pieces with me to Cambodia, but a few dresses, including my favorite ikat tie-front dress, sits, waiting for me, in Los Angeles. My sister, Jennifer, has another Mociun dress from a later season, which I have been stalking for a few years now. When I am back home this winter, I hope to convince her to give it to me. She never wears it. What a waste.

365 days, week #41

2011-10-18T19:48:00.000-07:00

A week in Thailand. Visiting and talking with contract farmers. Learning from Thai and Laotian sugar farmers, academics, NGOs, and other international and local lawyers working on environmental and human rights issues. A crucial exchange of stories. Meals in a sacred shine, which once served as a communist base. So much sticky rice, som tam (papaya salad), and Thai iced tea! Long car rides in the dark. Avoiding the floods. A press conference in Bangkok. An afternoon wandering off the Siam exit on BTS.

Isetan in Bangkok

2011-10-14T09:52:00.000-07:00

via tribu02 flickr

In my two short visits to Tokyo, I was lost, each time, in Isetan, a massive Japanese department store, which has a brilliant food court, stocked with Japanese goodies and sweets.

I almost entirely forgot about Isetan, until today, when I wandered in for the afternoon, looking for an electric oven. From my cursory review, there are two major distinctions between the Japanese and Thai stores. First, the Japanese store, as I recall, was much more forward with its fashion offerings. Second, the Thai store is more accommodating with its food - there are seats and benches galore that entice you stay and have that matcha scone with clotted cream, or that mango yoghurt, or that salmon onigiri, or that hot-off-the-griddle okonomiyaki. At the time of my visits, that was not the case in Tokyo - no one was eating. How? I do remember being irked several times in the Isetan in Tokyo, as I had to slink away to sample my store-bought treats. (I just realized that, when traveling, I spend a fair amount of time slinking away to eat.)

In other news, the flooding is getting worse in Bangkok. In order to meet a colleague for dinner, I spent an unfortunate part of my evening traversing a dark, very flooded section of the city. And, I never found the place!

testing

2011-10-12T08:34:00.000-07:00

via Gravel & Gold

Thailand is great, except for the flooding right now. The past few days have left me well-fed and amazed by the tenacity and courage of farm workers in Thailand, Laos, and Cambodia, who often face hardships and evictions from what appear to be unconscionable contracts signed with sugar industry giants. Seriously, how do they do it?

In unrelated matters, I picked up this Circle Top by SFS, after reading Cheryl's raves. Although I could send it to my California address, I opted to have it shipped to Cambodia. Let's see if it makes it there. I hope it does. This top is made by Shinobu Sering, in San Francisco. And, it was on sale.

The week ahead

2011-10-08T22:52:00.000-07:00

1. I leave for Thailand tomorrow morning. My colleague, Dom, has dengue fever (poor thing) and I have to go in his stead to attend a workshop he coordinated with Thai partners working on displaced sugar communities. While I love Bangkok and cannot help but think this might be my opportunity to hit up Chatuchak Market for shoes and a sampling of sticky rice and fried chicken, me thinks this will seriously hamper my writing this week.

2. We moved house last week and have been busy buying furniture and plants. Yesterday, I bought a small lime tree and a chili plant. Both sit on my terrace, where I've quickly grown accustomed to writing as the sun sets against the silhouette of palm trees.

3. Also, this new space has inspired me to have more early morning breakfasts. What's happening to me? The pictures below, from fellow bloggers, have my mind racing with morning ideas.

[first image via Popcorn Plays; second via Simply Breakfast]

Note to Self: Remember this time.

2011-10-05T00:00:00.000-07:00

Even though it doesn't always feel like it these days, you will look back on this time, many years from now, and appreciate it for what it was: an incredible and challenging opportunity; a time in your life when you were surrounded by some of the most inspired people you've ever known; a period in your life when you felt alive , though somedays raw.

And this remains the case despite the daily frustrations that give you pause and make you shake your head. Remember this when you cannot understand why Cambodian street food can't be as tasty or clean as its Thai and Vietnamese counterparts, or when you cannot comprehend the lack of order and infrastructure in light of the foreign money pouring into this country, or why good cheese is so expensive in this country and baking ovens such a household rarity, or when the realities of working in this country continue to wear on you, when the divide continues to engulf and push.

The one that got away

2011-10-04T23:38:00.000-07:00

Mayle, I can't quit you, as much as I try and even though I live and work in conditions that aren't exactly conducive to delicate frocks. I'm still looking for the Mayle Elvira, years later. The last big Mayle find I had was in the week following my decision to leave Portland and pare down for Cambodia. I was at a consignment shop in NW Portland and there it was, a Frederica in Amalfi hanging behind the desk, not even processed and not quite my size. I didn't hesitate. It was one of the few pieces I brought to Phnom Penh, one that instantly picks me up when I'm feeling and -- and let's be honest here -- looking like crap. These days, those small comforts are invaluable.

Renne's recent post was a good reminder of mindful consumerism and how and why I choose to spend my money in the way that I do.

My Sunday Inspiration

2011-10-01T22:07:00.000-07:00

Currently inspired by this color palette (green, deep purple) and the idea of a delicious breakfast. Ethan and I are moving house today, and I'm sick. And attempting to write. Argghh.

[Images link to source.]

Let's talk about yurts.

2011-09-22T22:04:00.000-07:00

It's another Friday morning in Phnom Penh. I had a lovely morning. Heather and I made it to another 6:30am yoga session (I'm so proud of myself), where friend and amazing-woman Lee was also in attendance. After the yoga session, Lee and I shared coffee and muffins at Brown Cafe. We chatted for several hours and were later joined by her colleague, who shares my love of brogues, vintage eyeglasses, brightly patterned scarves, and weathered cognac -hued briefcases. (Those interests, especially among colleagues, are so rare in Cambodia, and such a treat!)

It's also the beginning of the Pchum Ben holiday, a (for me) nine-day holiday that empties the streets of Phnom Penh and creates longer than usual travel routes to the rest of the country. This is a time for Cambodians to visit their families in the provinces and to offer prayers at the local pagodas. Last year, Connie and Spence visited me to find a near empty city, with very few restaurants open. That feels so long ago.

This year, Ethan and I are taking a short trip to Bangkok, Thailand. We leave tonight. I'm going to search for beauty products at the shiny malls and hunt for items at Topshop. But mostly, we're going to eat, and wander. I'm not taking the entire holiday, however, as I need to write. (Stress levels just shot up.)

Oh, but this post was intended to be about yurts - or gers, as Mongolians say.

In August, after Kashgar, we traveled south to Karakul in western China, to a Kyrgystan lakeside village that sits about eight hours from the Pakistan border. As we drove along, the scenery climbed up and up, dotted only with road construction and military checkpoints, where we were questioned about our nationality and our intent to travel through the region. Prior to the Kashgar incident, one could travel independently to Karakul via a cheap bus ride and then find a family to stay with. That was not the case at the time of our travels. We were required to hire a driver and to purchase a permit, which we flagged about at each and every checkpoint.

Once at the lake, I realized that the elevation was much higher than I had expected - I had slight altitude sickness. It was also much cooler - I slept under 6 thick blankets, though I was severely underdressed (skinny jeans, button down shirt, 3.1 Lim bag, scarf). The yurt smelled of camel or sheep, or some smell that brought me back to my travels in Mongolia.

And, the morning after: bright and crisp, with an errant goat making trouble. I snuck out of the yurt and drank all the images in.

Looking at:

2011-09-21T18:14:00.000-07:00

Wendy Nichol Aztec Bullet Bag. Too rich for my blood at the moment, but I can look.

No. 6. I think I will finally have to give in when I'm back in the States, although I wonder how many cognac-whiskey-colored clogs, boots, and heels I have stashed in a box back home.

Case in point. An old pair of lace up Devotte boots, tucked away in one of the many storage boxes back home. I am so looking forward to wearing boots and warmer weather attire in December!

I have an entire day devoted to writing and then a few friends are coming over to cook dinner this evening.

(Images link to source.)

headache.

2011-09-21T03:07:00.000-07:00

via Cambodian Trainspotter

I'm going to say it - how ridiculous is it that assisting people to access legal recourse is considered "incitement" or a disruption to "public order"?

Kashgar Street Markets, Ramadan Fiesting

2011-09-19T22:47:00.000-07:00

I need to get my head out of the crazy drama at work. Let's look at pictures of the Kashgar street market, shall we? Right.

Since it was Ramadan, observant locals ate once before dawn and fasted until sunset. During the day, the local street markets were relatively quiet. As sunset approached, however, the scene slowly started to become busier, and busier, and still busier, before finally bursting into an frenetic pace as families bought food for their evening meal. The streets: People yelling and jostling, sheep being herded around, electronic motorbikes buzzing through the crowds. Then, just as quickly as it began, it dissipated and darkness fell. It was quite a treat to see.

Ethan and I started most days strolling. For lunch, we would buy fruit, bread, yoghurt, cake, and drinks from a street market vendor and then return to our guesthouse, where we would sit and read until we decided a nap was due. That was how we beat the heat.

After the nap and sunset, we would find a local place to eat dinner and then walk over to Id Kah Mosque, to a small eatery on the square that sold frozen yoghurt cones for 1 RMB. Steal! We'd sit on the steps and watch the children play.

Deutsche Presse-Agentur: Asian Development Bank Denies Requesting Action Against NGOs

2011-09-19T19:08:00.000-07:00

via M&C

Phnom Penh – The Asian Development Bank on Monday dismissed accusations that one of its consultants asked Phnom Penh to act against groups monitoring one of its infrastructure development projects. An internal investigation found ‘no evidence’ of any request for action against two rights groups that advocate for people affected by a 142-million-dollar railway rehabilitation project, ADB country head Putu Kamayana said.

His comments contradict a June 17 letter from Minister of Finance Keat Chhon to Prime Minister Hun Sen, a copy of which the German Press Agency dpa has seen. Keat Chhon wrote that an unidentified ADB consultant had asked the government to act against the groups STT and Bridges Across Borders Cambodia (BABC). In his letter, the minister asked Hun Sen to ‘nullify (their) eligibility.’The ADB consultant has drawn the attention of the government officials to be careful with these NGOs, and requested the government take immediate action on this group of foreign NGOs because (the) ADB is also under political pressure caused by these NGOs,’ he wrote.

Within weeks the government suspended STT for alleged paperwork violations, and warned BABC for ‘discrediting the government’ and inciting people against the government, a criminal offence. Two other groups monitoring railway resettlement were similarly cautioned. Keat Chhon also wrote that ‘local and international consultants’ from the ADB had said the main goal of the non-governmental organizations was to cancel the railway’s construction.

Cambodia is rehabilitating its railway, which fell into neglect after years of conflict. When completed, the new railway will close the gap in the regional rail network and link Singapore to the city of Kunming in China. The ADB’s Kamayana said the bank was aware of the allegations and had carried out a ‘thorough internal investigation.’ ‘No evidence was found to substantiate alleged misconduct by any ADB consultants,’ Kamayana said by email.

However, the ADB earlier declined to provide a copy of its investigation report, saying dpa could apply for it through the bank’s formal information channels. A formal request on September 13 has so far not been answered. Kamayana said the ADB hoped the NGOs would be allowed to continue their monitoring work, which was ‘integral’ to the project’s success. In his letter, Keat Chhon also recommended banning any advocacy work by foreign NGOs and foreigners in local NGOs.

He also said the government should rapidly pass and implement the controversial draft NGO Law. The bill has riled some donors and hundreds of civil society groups who say it will impose burdensome restrictions on NGOs, and increase the power of the government over them. Keat Chhon’s letter carried an annotation from Hun Sen on June 19 approving its contents. Keat Chhon and staff at the finance ministry could not be reached for comment. Officials at other ministries declined to comment.

The ADB has provided 84 million dollars for the railway rehabilitation project, while the Australian government’s development arm AusAID has provided 21.5 million dollars. STT and BABC have worked for nearly two years with villagers facing resettlement under the rehabilitation. ADB rules say people who are resettled must not end up worse off. In a letter to the ADB last year the groups targeted by the government criticized conditions at a resettlement site where two children drowned. David Pred, BABC’s executive director, said by email that the ‘dire circumstances’ of many resettled families showed the bank’s consultants had failed in their duties. Referring to the June 17 letter, he said he was ‘deeply disappointed’ that ADB consultants appeared involved in actions against the NGOs. The authorities have crossed swords with STT and BABC before, notably over the groups’ advocacy on behalf of villagers at the controversial Boeung Kak lake project in central Phnom Penh, which is being developed by a prominent ruling party senator. In March, the World Bank suspended lending to Cambodia after a slew of evictions at the lake saw thousands of residents displaced with what rights groups said was inadequate compensation.

The Streets of Kashgar

2011-09-15T18:17:00.000-07:00

I took a few pictures off of Ethan's camera. Why does our Kazakhstan/China trip seem so long ago? Isn't it amazing how quickly you sink back into everyday life?

I'll post more from the Kashgar market and Karakul Lake, where we stayed in a yurt in a Kyrgystan village (loved it, loved it). I just finished a 6:30am morning yoga session (yay for me!) and have to go to the office for a community meeting.

Now

2011-09-14T08:35:00.000-07:00

Currently craving sunsets outside of the city. Pchum Ben holiday approaches, in just 9 days.

Kashgar, Xinjiang Province, China

2011-09-09T03:36:00.000-07:00

via nhagen123

My camera is not working. I used Ethan's camera for the majority of the August trip and still have not uploaded pictures.

Something today triggered a memory of Kashgar. The city of Kashgar is in Xinjiang province in western China. It is home to the largest population of Uyghurs in the country. We reached it via 24 hour train journey from Urumqi, China, a drab sprawl of a city.

As our luck would have it, we arrived in early August, just days after the incident in Kashgar that left at least 19 dead. Media was blocked, so we had no clue. All we knew was of the incident in Khotan, another city in Xinjiang, a few weeks prior.

The military presence in the city was astounding - and intimidating. Battalions of armed men were positioned in the central mosque area. Caravans full of military men slowly cruised down the streets, monitoring. Traveling into the city and out, we encountered checkpoint after checkpoint, after checkpoint.

But I digress.

We stayed in the center of Old Kashgar, a crumbling labyrinth of mud-brick buildings, narrow streets, hat shops, spice stalls, dried fruit vendors, and small tea shops. It is an incredible city. If you allow yourself to get lost in its maze, you come across small mosques and curious eyes, you pass women wearing brightly colored ikat-print dresses, glimpse low-slung courtyards . . .

Directly outside of our guesthouse were food vendors, where, in the dry August heat, men sold fire-baked bread. The one pictured is similar to naan, but much thicker and sprinkled with sesame, onion, and spices. Locals eat it as a snack, or use it to pull off bits of spicy lamb from a sizzling pork kebab.

At the time of our visit, it was Ramadan, and our guesthouse asked us to refrain from eating or drinking on the streets. As such, we had to buy food and slink away, like little street urchins, to dark corners to take sips from our water bottles and to nibble on snacks. It was over 100 degrees, an unforgiving dry heat. If I didn't eat, I would surely pass out.

pill-popping and other coping mechanisms, Pt. 1

2011-09-08T22:42:00.001-07:00

It's Friday afternoon in Phnom Penh. I'm sitting at Cafe Living Room, housed in a colonial -era building, trying to work out a few things about the research findings, trying to write. The page in front of me -it's minimized right now because I'm using my blog as a distraction, using "urgent" Skype work messages as a break - only has a few words on it. Oh. my. gosh. I'm sipping on a honey latte. It is delicious.

This morning, I went to yoga. It's rare that I have enough motivation to do any form of intentional exercise. Even the act of dressing for the exercise tires me. There was , however, a summer in Portland when I was obsessed with Bikram yoga (26 postures in a 105 degree room), and, for three months, I managed to do yoga three times a week. The idea at first sounded less appealing: me, sweating profusely, in a stuffy hot room with many other people who are also sweating profusely. Images of stepping in, even slipping on, a stranger's pool of sweat plagued my mind. Nonetheless, I was soon addicted. I felt so good that summer. A stranger even commented on how my skin glowed? Really? Was it the increased circulation? In sum, it was the best shape I've been in my recent adult life.

I tried yoga once in Phnom Penh, on the rooftop of Nataraj, with a small fan blowing and an orange sun setting in the background. I think. I do remember it was really warm, almost Bikram-warm. Through no fault of the instructor, I lost interest. It was also $9/session, and maybe I am cheap, but I shy away from paying Western prices in Cambodia.

Only recently have I seriously considered how I take care of myself. Fine. It's the shady NGO crackdown. It's the stress at work. But also I am getting older and I realize I need to put as much intention into taking care of myself as I do about other things, such as travel and dress-daydreaming.

The yoga this morning was done at the Flicks, which is a community movie house in Phnom Penh. They hold a morning session a few times a week, for $5/session. My muscles hurt. TheyAustralian instructor helped me do a headstand (i.e., he held my feet up for 3 seconds). It was good - I'll go again.

Another thing I've done to take care of myself is to take vitamins. In many ways, I eat healthier in Phnom Penh - I eat less processed food, I bake, roast, sautee much more, I almost exclusively buy fresh ingredients. And yet, I don't have access to all the foods I love eating. (No weekly sushi trips with Mami to nosh on seared salmon.) Cheryl's post on skin supplements piqued my interest, and, voilà, iherb.com shipped those babies to Cambodia, on the cheap. As opposed to my firm job in Portland, I am in the field more these days, interviewing and meeting with households affected by the ADB Railway Rehabilitation Project. I don't mind more freckles, but my hair is parched, my skin so-so.

Oh, and the random picture: ice cream on a hot day in Almaty, Kazakhstan, a brief stop while on a stroll through the city with Ethan. These days, I don't skimp on small treats.

Radio Australia re NGO Crackdown. Or, How Work Continues to Distract Me.

2011-09-08T16:36:00.000-07:00

Australia asked to defend Cambodian NGOs

Presenter:Joanna McCarthy
Speakers: Lee Rhiannon, Australian Greens Party Senator

Listen to the broadcast here

The Australian Greens want the Foreign Minister Kevin Rudd to publicly defend the rights of Cambodian Non-Government Organisations facing a crackdown by Phnom Penh.

The Cambodian government warned NGOs after they wrote to the Australian government's aid agency, Ausaid, about the impact of a railway project on local families being resettled.

The resettlement is being managed by Cambodia but Australia has contributed about $US20 million towards the $140 million refurbishment project.

The letter advised Ausaid and its aid partner, the Asian Development Bank, that two children had drowned fetching water at a relocation site due to a lack of proper facilities.

The Greens say these NGOs have been pivotal in highlighting other problems with the resettlement program, including claims of intimidation and forced removal of families.

The warning comes as Phnom Penh tries to pass a new law regulating NGOs, which observers fear is an attempt to silence those critical of the government.

In a written statement, a spokesperson for Ausaid says it closely monitors conditions at resettlement sites and is in frequent contact with the ADB, the Cambodian government and NGOs regarding conditions and the measures needed to improve them.

It adds that the Australian government has repeatedly made it clear to the Cambodian government that it expects it to honour its agreement to protect the rights of those being resettled.

Alexa Chung, Madewell, Fall 2011

2011-09-06T20:13:00.000-07:00

Naked Tomato Sauce

2011-09-04T22:41:00.000-07:00

It seems all I can think about these days, apart from the shady crackdown on my NGO and writing the research report, is food. Maybe I'm seeking comfort in small pleasures.

This weekend, I was very sick with tummy issues. That's quite common in these parts, and my Khmer colleagues will note, quite frequently with the shaking of their heads and a slight chuckle, that barang (foreigner) stomachs are weak.

It is generally true. There was a period this summer when my office stocked Anna the Swedish-Russian lawyer, 1 American law student, and 1 Canadian law student. It was as if the three did rotations getting sick from food and/or the environment. I don't mean to make light of the issue, but it is just a reality of life here. Strangely, I have never come across so many issues when eating street food in Thailand or in Vietnam. Nor did I encounter any issues eating in Kazakhstan or China this last month.

Poor Ethan had to deal with me. He made me toast, and we watched an old Woody Allen film, as I recouped. When you're feeling like crap and stressed out to bits, a hug from someone who cares, and a reminder of how beautiful and incredible you are work wonders. Nevermind that I don't actually believe it in moments like that.

I'm feeling better today. I'm going to make this for lunch. Simple tomato sauce via Smitten Kitchen. I like the idea of a pared down tomato sauce and the claim that it requires no cheese was enough to bait me. I used the same ingredients in the iteration I made last week -- actually this recipe uses less ingredients! The process is, however, slightly different. I wonder if it will make a difference.

Lephet Thoke - Burmese Tea Leaf Salad

2011-09-02T21:00:00.000-07:00

via flickr

Two nights ago, I had dinner with two incredible women at the Burmese restaurant in Phnom Penh, Irrawaddi. Both women work in human rights law in the region and have been in Cambodia for years longer than me. We spent the evening catching up and generally laughing. I am astounded by their ability to balance their life and to remain seemingly healthy and happy. How do people stop the work from sticking?

But this post isn't about the tolls of work in this country. It's about the tea leaf salad. No lettuce - just red chili peppers, roasted peanuts, lime, cilantro, fermented tea leaves, tomato, and garlic. It doesn't sound like it, but it is good.

Obsessed

2011-09-02T08:28:00.000-07:00

via Digoyo

Maybe it's just my lingering fascination with those Mociun + Krantz necklaces, but these ceramic necklaces from Digoyo are on my mind tonight.

Also, these shoes by Beatrice Valenzuela . . .

via Jeana

Joint Statement on Cambodian NGO Law

2011-09-02T00:08:00.000-07:00

NGOs advised by the Ministry to ‘readjust’ their work

Date Issue	2011-08-19
Nature of violation	Veiled threat made against two NGOs by the Foreign Affairs Ministry - Phnom Penh
Rights involved	- Right to freedom of expression, Article 41 of the Constitution of Cambodia and Article 19 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights. -Right to freedom of association, Article 42 of the Constitution of Cambodia and Article 20 of the Universal Declaration of Human Rights and Article 22 of the International Covenant on Civil and Political Rights

Brief Description

The Foreign Affairs Ministry met with two non-governmental groups yesterday, Thursday 18 August 2011, and accused them of inciting families to oppose the rehabilitation of the Cambodian rail system, ordering the NGOs to “readjust” their work.

More at Cambodian Center for Human Rights

Also, on Human Rights Watch: a joint statement from NGOs

Also, yesterday, day 1 of writing the research report, was an epic failure.

Breakfast: Hagelslag

2011-08-31T18:24:00.000-07:00

This morning: yoghurt, buttered toast with chocolate sprinkles, a cup of coffee, banana slices drizzled with macadamia nut honey.

I've never seen these chocolate sprinkles outside of the Netherlands. I have this soft memory of breakfast in Amsterdam: overlooking the community garden, small terrace, milk, coffee, chocolate and other brightly-colored sprinkles on thick toast. Ethan brought me a small bag full from Europe, along with some other treats.

Starting today, I'm going to work from home 2 1/2 days a week and hopefully -cross my fingers - I can flesh out this report with our research findings. I have a month to do so. Stress.

Drama and Kittens

2011-08-30T18:43:00.003-07:00

I think that sums up life lately.

I haven't even been able to digest the rest of my Silk Roads trip because as soon as--and, really, before--I arrived back in Cambodia, news of the shady NGO crackdown came my way. Unfortunately, the whole thing did not blow over while I was away. An organization with whom we've worked very closely to monitor and research the Railways Project has been suspended under the pretext of the new NGO law, which itself is set to place egregious limits on freedom of expression. Our organization is also under the gun, and my research activities have been frozen since my departure in late July. It simply boggles my mind.

Some updates and news here, here, here, and here.

Somehow, as this drama continues to unfold, I've found some peace and quiet. Vivian's 3 kittens, all ginger and energy, continue to terrorize the house. They get into our wardrobes, though they prefer Heather's over mine. Their pitter-patter resounds off the wooden floors all hours of the night.

Ethan and I spent last night making tomato sauce from scratch, in an attempt to salvage the huge bag of basil that was quickly languishing in my fridge. We watched Midnight in Paris.

Glimpses from Almaty, Kazakhstan

2011-08-24T17:07:00.000-07:00

It turns out I could not access blogger from either Kazakhstan or China. And so I am going to have to reconstruct my trip from the bits and pieces of memory that haven't already been erased and the few pictures I was able to take.

Almaty is a pleasant city. The connotations of post-Soviet structures -- which I associate with memories of central Russia and Mongolia (and which I secretly crave), which Ethan associates with his layover in Kyiv, Ukraine -- didn't hold up. The city was quaint, with a walking boulevard and park running through it and so much green space. With the exception s of the hookers calling our hotel room, my interactions with locals were lovely, and everyone we met was helpful and warm.

I'm pretty horrible at capturing the big tourist sites (i.e., I am lazy), and I much prefer capturing daily life that strike me on my wanderings in the city. And that is what we did.

Some highlights:

One day, we wandered around the city and came across Panfilov Heroes Memorial Park, a memorial to World War II -- and quite the place for newlyweds to take pictures. That day, we counted at least 10 wedding entourages traipsing through the park. That day was a taste of summer, as I remember it: melting ice cream, walking in the park, flowers, trees, a bright, warm day.
To beat the heat that day, we stopped at a small fountain with a view of the snow-capped Almaty Mountains and dipped our feet in the cold water.
On another day, after our plan to see the theatre was curbed, we walked up to the hill, past the golden gilded mosque, to sample a view of the city and to have a picnic. Prior to the walk, we raided the local grocery store and bought beet salad (yum), a local cheese (not so yum), freshly baked, dark brown bread, cookies, and a bottle of red wine. We found a bench, had our picnic, read our books, took a nap.
Our hotel was what one would call "Soviet chic" - drab, chintzy, full of tschotskes and non-functioning, seemingly superfluous fixtures.
The local grocery store: camel milk, lots of Kazakhstan candies, dark brown bread, and being reprimanded by staff for taking pictures.

On the move.

2011-07-27T22:05:00.000-07:00

via Fabien09 flickr

Within the last 2 days before my departure, my computer crashed, aking with it all my files , including a massive document I was attempting to complete. Also my camera is on the fritz. Oh luck.

In any case, I'm making my way to Almaty, Kazakhstan to meet Ethan. While I am super excited to see Kazakhstan, I am equally excited to see Xinjiang province, China, especially Kashgar, which I've been told has a massive, colorful bazaar. I'm hoping to find some nice textiles there.

This three/four week vacation is needed. Cambodia is too intense right now. I need a bit of breathing and thinking room. I feel as if I'm becoming pessimistic.

Last week, a friend, who I met in Mongolia two years ago, wrote to me. He gave me an update on his life, what has transpired in the past two years since our intense chat. He asked what came of my decision to try human rights lawyering in Asia.

Wow. I can't believe how much my life has changed in that period of time.

Distractions tonight

2011-07-21T08:19:00.001-07:00

via shoppingsmycardio

So it's been a really rough week or so. But, meh, I leave Cambodia for over 3 1/2 weeks on Tuesday. Maybe, just maybe, I'll come back to quieter, safer times. Crossing my fingers.

I have an evening in Bangkok, followed by a few long layovers in Chinese cities, as I slowly move West, until I finally make it to Almaty - from which I will then travel back into China, into Xinjiang province and, more interesting to me, Uighur territory.

Somehow, Kazakhstan and Western China don't exactly conjure up my shopping jones, but I can wish. My eye candy tonight: Swedish Hasbeens and these little wallets and bags, spotted by Becki. Lovely.

Churros

2011-07-21T04:39:00.000-07:00

via Xooro

On Sundays, after the requisite Catholic mass, churchgoers would flood the grounds outside, where tamale and churro ladies peddled their wares to the hungry. My sisters and I weren't impervious to these treats. I always picked a churro, which was sweet and crunchy and wrapped in crisp, white paper.

I crave those treats now and then. Over the years, I've had dressed-up versions at much nicer venues than the church courtyard, but they have not come close to that simple treat.

This Xooro place, in Los Angeles, may be a worthy contender.

Checking in

2011-07-20T19:15:00.000-07:00

via Seat 61

It's been a stressful week or so. There's so much I wish I could write, and I eventually will, but for now I cannot. Let's just say there's some "shady Cambodian political stuff" that is seriously impeding my work, including my research. Sometimes, you stare out at all the saffron-robed monks and the decaying French colonial buildings in this city, and you are lulled into forgetting that this place, in reality, is fairly closed. There is very little democratic space to do high-impact work.

On a lighter note, my friend, Jeanice, is in town for a few days. It's a bit surreal, her sitting with me in the tuk-tuk as we navigated the evening in Phnom Penh. It almost feels like two of my worlds colliding. But her arrival comes at a perfect time -- I need a friend to vent to, someone who knew me before Cambodia, before the whirlwind of work here.

Other things: Ethan is having a wonderful time in Europe, as can be expected. We meet in Almaty, Kazakhstan next week!! I cannot wait.

And . . . Vivian, the cat who adopted us, give birth to 3 orange tabby kittens in the corner shelf, in Clarisse's room. They are small, and furry, and already I am smitten.

Life is very full these days.

More baubles

2011-07-15T03:07:00.000-07:00

via Una

Mociun. Pretty. At Una, where there is a summer sale.

Rainbow Lodge

2011-07-14T20:21:00.000-07:00

via Rainbow Lodge

I stayed here last weekend, at Rainbow Lodge, an eco-resort sitting on the southern edge of the Cardamom Mountains reserve. My friend and colleague, Dom, celebrated his 30th birthday, with friends who flew in from Australia and Holland.

One day, we took a walk through the jungle to the waterfalls. I learned that I really, really hate leeches.

365 days, weeks #26-27

2011-07-12T04:16:00.001-07:00

I finally have some time to catch up on blogging and to read my favorite blogs. The past two weeks have been an intense, stressful, wonderful blur. Nearly a week in Kuala Lumpur, I managed to get my Kazakhstan visa after 4 visits to the embassy and 5 phone calls to the consulate.

While in Kuala Lumpur, I made a final stop at Topshop and waved farewell (for now) to Ethan before jumping on a plane to Phnom Penh, where I then packed up for a research trip to Sihanoukville, the community that, in many ways, spurred my work on this project nearly a year ago. This trip, despite the abundance of post-work evenings spent eating barbequed seafood on the beach, despite the bright orange sunsets, was the toughest yet. There were disagreements among the team, and my role shifted quickly and repeatedly from leader to diplomat, and back.

The morning after we completed the field research we were on a minibus to Kep and Chamcar Bei for a wedding in the country. We followed a bumpy dirt road into the rural countryside for 30+ minutes until we reached a small house tucked away in the middle of nowhere. The entire scene was surreal, the green backdrop and wooden home reminiscent of the Italian countryside, except there was a giant elephant there and lots of Cambodian dancing. The whole wedding, a veritable Who's Who of human and land rights academics and lawyers in the region, lasted until the evening.

And the next morning, I left for Koh Kong to celebrate my friend Dom's birthday. More on that later.

Eye Candy, or Escaping the Heat in KL

2011-07-01T02:45:00.000-07:00

via Louise Despont

Still in KL. Still waiting for my Kazakhstan visa. The embassy said to call them this afternoon.

It's very hot here, and I'm escaping the mid-day heat by working in our room. And by "working," I obviously mean staring at Louise Despont's works and reading up on the Railways issue.

Melaka

2011-06-30T18:02:00.001-07:00

via zenoed flickr

We stayed at Ringo's Foyer, a small guesthouse in Chinatown, a stone's throw from tourist-centric Jonker Street - a narrow walkway flanked by Chinese and nonya eateries, temples, old printing press companies, small art galleries. We wandered into the old quarter, where colonial remnants, Portuguese and British, stood. We dined on dosas accompanied by ridiculously massive mugs of fresh orange juice.

Not a bad time.

Topshop and Other Meanderings in KL

2011-06-29T18:44:00.001-07:00

I dropped off my visa application at the Kazakhstan embassy on Tuesday morning and begged that the 5-working day rule be expedited. I'll find out tomorrow.

After running that errand, the rest of the day was ours for the taking, and we wandered past "embassy row", into and around a 100-degree Kuala Lumpur, and eventually into the shiny shopping center sitting at the base of the Petronas Towers, where I literally fell over myself into the Topshop. After apologizing to Ethan for what would soon become a rabid response, I ran around trying this and that on, enticed by all the punchy colors and patterns, all reminiscent of hazy summers, all eye candy I've deprived myself of for the past year in Cambodia. [Note: My time working in Cambodia has no doubt resulted in a heightened sensitivity to anything resembling decent clothing.]

I forced myself to walk away that time, but I'll go back before I leave KL. The rest of the day was spent browsing the selection at the giant Kinokuniya bookstore, where all the books were plastic-covered to prevent my perusing; walking the park outside, where security guards stopped us and others from sitting on the perfectly manicured grass; chatting during afternoon tea, and eating a dinner of curried eggplant and rice at a food stand at the entrance of Chinatown.

I have (not surpisingly) managed to stay on top of online work conversations, but not managed to really write anything.

To remedy that, we moved, via 2 hour bus ride, to the much quieter, portside town of Melaka, a lovely World Heritage site.

Step 2

2011-06-26T05:03:00.000-07:00

Step 1, a.k.a. the Chinese visa, is done.

Step 2, a.k.a. the Kazakhstan visa, is a big headache for me.

None of the travel agencies in Phnom Penh can help me. One option is to use a visa processing service I've previously used in the U.S., but that would require FedEx-ing my passport to Washington D.C. - a bit ridiculous.

I am left with two feasible options -- the Bangkok consulate or the Kuala Lumpur consulate. I've heard that the service in Bangkok is really iffy, with the consulate open only two hours a few days a week, with strict 5-working-day processing, strict application processing, and payment that would require me running to a bank and back to the embassy with a pay slip in the two-hour business window. Impossible.

So I am off to Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia tomorrow. I am working remotely. Maybe this will force me to write! The past few weeks have been rough for me. The meetings with shareholders have been deflating, with affected community stomping out, frustrated by the process and lack of progress. I'm attempting to buckle down next month, to focus on field research -- invariably long, draining days.

Ethan is coming with me to Malaysia. Next week, he flies from Kuala Lumpur to Paris, France to meet his family. He will traipse around Europe for the month of July, with a small climb up the Matterhorn with his brother. If all goes according to plan, we meet in Almaty, Kazakhstan in August.

My heart is a little heavy. I'm listening to Nouvelle Vague to pick me up, or calm me down.

Trinkets

2011-06-23T00:00:00.000-07:00

via iswasandwillbe

It might just be that time again, when I am in desperate need of new jewelry because: (1) I have been rummaging, like crazy, in my armoir, hoping that a forgotten trinket will pop up, and (2) when not doing the aforementioned, I am searching for pieces online.

Beers for Bears

2011-06-18T04:54:00.000-07:00

via Save the Bears

Apparently, this is what I do on a Saturday night in Phnom Penh - raise a glass for the Asiatic Black Bear. I hear there will be an iced bear sculpture with flowing vodka. It sounds very strange, but the rooftop views at the Foreign Correspondent's Club cannot be missed.

P.S. There was, indeed, an ice bear sculpture with flowing liquor. And lots of dancing and conservation-folk mingling.

Shugo Tokumaru

2011-06-17T06:35:00.001-07:00

Nearly a year ago, I experienced my first big shock with working on land and housing rights in Cambodia. I had been in the country for about a month by then. I shared that experience with my friend, Paul, who I had dinner with that night, and it resulted in a friendship.

I haven't spoken to Paul in months, but his love of Shugo Tokumaru, a Japanese song-writer, has stuck -- his songs make me a tad happier on days like this. A year later, I remain fascinated by the work, but also I am more entrenched. And it is a long journey, this experience. I'm learning how important it is to draw boundaries from this work and to take time out.

finds

2011-06-15T19:48:00.001-07:00

via Una

Erin Considine and Maragrita Saplala, respectively.

Step 1

2011-06-15T03:18:00.001-07:00

Slow movement on my August trip: My Chinese visa application is in.

Boeung Keng Kang Market

2011-06-11T02:12:00.000-07:00

My Saturday so far: lazing in bed, cheap Japanese eats at Soran with friends, and walking across the street to Boeung Keng Kang local market, where I had a $1 pedicure (red-orange polish, OK rating) and stocked up on cauliflower and other veggies. I am making cauliflower gratin tonight.

Happy Friday

2011-06-09T16:48:00.000-07:00

It's nearly 7am on a Friday morning. The week flew by so quickly. The trip to Poipet to accompany a review mission was met with the same sweltering days in the Railway communities, hours spent in some of the most dismal living conditions I have ever witnessed: wooden shacks jammed next to each other, upon stilts surrounded by green and black water, smells upon smells. A summer intern, from a law school in Virginia, was sent along with us, and he asked me on the 8-hour ride to the border,"What's Poipet like?" I wanted to prepare him, wanted to explain that this was a far cry from shiny Seoul, where he had lived and worked for 5 years prior, but I just kept quiet. Later in the afternoon, when we sought shelter from the angry rain in a resident's home, I caught his eye as he watched the children run naked in the mud; he murmured, "Incredible."

Two and a half days, back and forth, to that community. Back in Phnom Penh. Then meetings, and a "big" meeting with major stakeholders that was a bit deflating. No concrete progress.

Anyway, it is Friday. And I have been listening a lot to the Kinks. This video from the Darjeeling Limited is my tribute to train journeys. I'm planning one right now for August, if only I can find a way to get my Kazakhstan visa without leaving Cambodia.

Stay tuned.

Linen

2011-06-05T03:46:00.001-07:00

via Garment House

I've never been a huge fan of linen. In the past, summer months always conjured images of me in white eyelet, on a bike (not really, because I'm a disaster on bike). But for some reason, this year, I'm craving linen dresses. Simple and crisp.

No Reservations

2011-06-05T01:24:00.000-07:00

Ahh, I am headed back to Poipet. Again. The communities there are being resettled, some 500+ affected households. Time to go back.

Anthony Bourdain returned to Cambodia recently to film an episode. Clarisse is certain that, in a previous episode some years back, he ended up in the bordertown of Poipet. I can't find that episode, but I came across this one, in which he visits Kep and Kampot, with the help of Dr. Kek, an amazing, amazing woman who runs one of the countries oldest and most effective human rights NGOs.

Ermie S/S 2011

2011-06-04T01:10:00.000-07:00

via Ermie

May was a crazy travel month for me -- I was out nearly 3 weeks, on various trips to less desireable places like Poipet, to Malaysian Borneo and Brunei, to Chiang Mai, Thailand.

I'm behind on the happenings of the blogging world. Like Jennifer's new collection is out, and it is lovely, lovely. Apart from the fact that this husband/wife duo creates great prints and textiles, I'm also fan of Ermie/Jennifer for her courage in leaving a staff job to pursue her line full-time. Pretty inspiring.

And thanks to other inspiring women I've met through blogging and with whom I keep in touch through blogging, one in particular, in NYC, who chats me up on life's happenings just when I need some chatting.

A year in Cambodia

2011-06-02T05:06:00.000-07:00

Anna took this picture the other day, as we sat aboard a little boat on the riverside, just before it floated along the river. It was a night of goodbyes, of laughter on a boat, of karaoke antics.

I've been in Cambodia a year. An entire year. How crazy is that?

The year flew by quickly, but certainly not painlessly. The first months were a novel love affair dotted with saffron monks, colorful wats (pagodas), too much dancing and island adventures, but soon that shiny veneer faded, little by little, partly because of my work, partly because of the need to cope with everything, to adjust. Six months turned into one year, into who-knows-how-long.

I came to Cambodia to learn human rights law. I honestly didn't know what that meant when I stepped foot in Phnom Penh, but I was intent on finding out. I brought with me expectations that the law would function in a similar way as it does in the States, that lawyers would, more or less, perform similiar tasks.

I was wrong. The work of international lawyers in Cambodia is so much more dynamic and flexible, more multi-facted than traditional law practice, at least as I know it. It has to be because there's not much of an enforceable legal framework, though, sure, there are many legal words, many ambitious laws, many would-be institutions that were created to enforce these mechanisms.

A year later, I have a better picture of what this work entails. I'm blown away by what I've been given the opportunity to do. I'm growing so much. But I also realize that I can only scratch the surface here. I'm a foreigner, after all.

Today

2011-06-01T19:21:00.000-07:00

via Anaise

Yesterday, during the random, mid-week holiday, I actually visited boutiques in Phnom Penh. Very hit or miss. But I walked into a small Euro one, and the overwhelming craving for well-constructed clothes hit me like a gigantic wave. Craving. Bad.

This, from Anaise, would do.

Return from Chiang Mai

2011-05-29T05:26:00.000-07:00

via Fashion Frolick

I'm back from Chiang Mai, Thailand, and what a short, exhausting, inspiring week it was. I met several people from the region doing incredible things, and, on more than one instance, I was blown away by the creativity of lawyers who do work outside the traditional practice of law. Besides meeting lawyers and law students working on rule of law issues in Vietnam, Laos, Malaysia and Thailand, I also met a fellow US lawyer who is initiating lawsuits to break patents in Thailand in order to increase access to affordable, generic HIV/AIDs drugs, which are often outside the reach of most Thai residents, despite the universal healthcare provided.

My colleague, Tourist (yes, that is his name), an intern at my organization accompanied me. It was his first time out of the country, and he took so many pictures, of the shiny Bangkok airport, of escalators and elevators, and all the fancy shops, of everything on the trip. The first time the plane landed, he beamed such a huge smile across the aisle at me, over the French travelers who were assisting him with his Thai visa paperwork, that I could do nothing more than laugh aloud. To be forced to see things through his eyes, through constant awe, cut away any jaded outlook I may have. It forced me to stop and look at things, and to consider.

And the small city was, indeed, lovely and peaceful: the old quarter with its decaying fortress, the moat surrounding it; the fried chicken lady situated just outside the moat, who, for 50 Baht (the equivalent of $1.75), sold you five pieces of chicken, sticky rice, and sweet chili sauce (seriously, yum); the ice cream shop I frequented; the green hills that greeted me every morning; the crazy-cheap food malls; the relatively clean streets; the order.

On the way back to Phnom Penh, I went a little nuts at the beauty counters in Bangkok international airport, and some of the results of that jaunt were a NARS Heat Wave lipstick, an orangey-red matte shade that will likely scream hooker in Cambodia (highlighted in J. Crew's S/S 2011 lookbook on all the models) and YSL Touche Eclat, which I swear by.

A feast.

2011-05-26T07:22:00.001-07:00

I've been in Chiang Mai, in northern Thailand, for a few days, and I'm loving the change of scenery. I'm staying at the office/house of a partner organization, which has a lovely courtyard covered with green grass, where I've participated in early morning yoga sessions. The house also comes with two resident (plump) dogs who are veterans at begging for food. They sit on the cool floor most of the day.

Two nights ago, we were tasked with contributing a dish to a potluck. A trip to the local market followed, as did hours of cooking and cooking in the hot kitchen. At one point, as I was chopping up vegetables for the soba salad, the burn of chili and oil permeated the kitchen, stinging my eyes and those of others and forcing us to stop for a while. Too many cooks in the kitchen.

The Americans and French worked on their mango and sticky rice and bruschetta dishes, respectively. Outside, the Vietnamese team constructed and fried salad rolls, while the Thai and Laotian team barbequed pork, which I could not stop sampling with sweet chili sauce. I have no idea what the Australians contributed. Mountains of noodles and huge pots of curry were also welcome additions.

Chiang Mai

2011-05-22T00:08:00.000-07:00

via Travels in Paradise

I should be packing for my trip to Chiang Mai, Thailand. My plane leaves in 3 hours. I'm spending a week there for work, and the idea of modernity and civilization excites me -- that and the NARS counter at Bangkok International Airport!

Lateline on the Railways

2011-05-19T17:14:00.000-07:00

ABC Lateline News finally aired the piece on the Railways Project! The community highlighted is the one I visited for two hellish days of legal aid assistance.

Zoe Daniels, Australian Broadcasting Corp. Cambodian Rail Line to Displace Country's Poor. A Cambodian rail line project involving AusAID and Australia's Toll Holding is under fire for offering meagre compensation for houses in the way of the tracks.

Transcript and news video here.

Tonight

2011-05-19T08:03:00.000-07:00

A few things on my mind tonight:

Thank goodness for Skype, which has allowed me recently to chat with friends across the ocean, as I turn in for the day and they begins theirs.

My insane, non-stop-talking family, I do miss you.

I went to the gym tonight, for the second time since I moved to Phnom Penh. Afterwards, I had a papaya apple ginger shake. I feel so healthy. Could I, should I make this a habit?

Views from the South China Sea

2011-05-19T07:54:00.001-07:00

I am far from beach bum material. Nonetheless, our time there was too short. And why is Malaysian food so yummy? More later.

Travel Legs

2011-05-17T23:30:00.000-07:00

via e-Borneo

We returned from our short holiday last night, and not until I stepped foot in busy, chaotic Phnom Penh did I fully appreciate the air of calm and peace that has enveloped me the past week, a tranquility that has stayed despite the rather hurried travel schedule. There was a lot of movement on this trip. It went something like this:

-Flight from Phnom Penh to Kuala Lumpur (Peninsular Malaysia)

-Flight from Kuala Lumpur to Brunei Darrusalam on the island of Borneo

-Ferry to the island of Labuan

-Ferry to Kota Kinabalu (Malaysian Borneo)

Strangely enough, and I forgot that this tends to be the case with me, the constant movement and exploration just feels right. It puts me at ease and there are a few things that feel more natural to me.

There were, of course, many quiet, still moments, many of which were spent sampling local cuisine, staring at the lapping waves of the South China Sea or the encroaching mist on Mt. Kinabalu.

Happy Mother's Day!

2011-05-08T08:48:00.000-07:00

via SiddarthK flickr

Tonight:

I am thinking of my mum and grandmother who are traveling in the Philippines at the moment. I miss them.

I am thinking of my dear friends Cherlou and Alex, who just welcomed their first son, Bradley. I hope to meet him someday soon!

I am thinking of baking oatmeal popovers soon.

I am thinking of the holiday this week - the King's Birthday. Ethan and I are flying to Kuala Lumpur in Peninsular Malaysia, then to Brunei Darussalam, where we plan to begin a somewhat hurried (though fun) overland journey to Malaysian Borneo.

I am thinking Vivian the cat has taken over our house. (Her kittens died, which really bummed out Clarisse and me.)

I am thinking this week will be busy -- much wrap up from last week's field visit, a visit from an amazing colleague based out of Bangkok, and other things.